Some of these tips are from my days as Head Road Captain of my local HOG chapter but most of the tips are - in this author’s humble opinion - just common sense guidelines from being on the road. None of these are written in stone and none of the information presented is to be considered dogma in any sense.
Take what you want, use what you need, that’s what it’s here for.
You won’t offend me whatsoever if you use some or ignore these tips outright. Also if you find something that is incorrect (and opinions are fine, but trust me when I tell you I will check for accuracy) let me know and I’ll happily correct it. Many of these things are again just things I think need to be out there to help everyone on the road to continue to ride and have fun.
So if you intend to waste time sending me flaming e-mails or rants trying tell me it’s somehow wrong to express my GOD GIVEN AMERICAN RIGHT THAT I FOUGHT SO HARD (AND BROTHERS & FRIENDS DIED) FOR then know that such e-mails, conversations, etc. will be gleefully ignored and DELETED.
On the subject of group riding tips understand that I will be speaking to riding in a group of motorcycles in Alaska, which, while we follow MSF (Motorcycle Safety Foundation) doctrine pretty much - there are some things that just won’t work up here. Alaska is unique in that our road system, while modern, is pretty much two lane roads with things like: tar snakes (tar injected into cracks on the roadway instead of paving), chip seal, packed gravel/dirt, animals…lots of animals, & the dreaded tourist making riding interesting to say the least. Also while we have a shorter riding time than most we also have longer days (you can ride a loooong time when the sun doesn’t set) so, contrary to popular belief, we get tons of riding in.
I also want to talk about confidence for a second. You are ultimately responsible for yourself, your passenger (if you are two up) and your bike. I don’t know how much you invested in your bike, but I know how much I spent and intend on keeping it shiny side up as much as possible. With this said, only you can gauge if you’re riding beyond your ability.
Some of the more “common” rules of the road for group rides: Basic rules
Arrive with gas tank filled!!!
Ride in a staggered formation.
Keep a two (2) second interval from the bike in front of you in the same lane and avoid riding in anyone’s blind spot, especially cars.
If a ride leader drops out of line, for any reason, leave his/her space open so he/she can return to the same position in line.
Other signals and rules
Point hand down….warns other riders of road hazards or slippery conditions.
Palm up, waving hand up and down…increase speed (go faster).
Palm down, waving hand up and down…decrease speed (go slower).
Point to your…headlight if it’s off; gas tank if you need gas.
Hand out with fist clenched if you need a comfort stop (food/restroom/etc.).
Headlight on at all times (no brights) makes you easier to see, and it’s the law.
Riders new to group riding will ride directly in front of the “sweep” or rear ride leader(s).
IN ALL CASES, YOU ARE RESPONSIBLE FOR YOUR OWN SAFETY. THOSE WHO DO NOT PRACTICE SAFE RIDING SHOULD BE POINTED OUT TO A RIDE LEADER. Remember the four pillars of group riding
Input. We will seek input from all members in regard to increasing group riding safety.
Communication. Information regarding safety issues will be communicated to the membership through email, web site, and through attendance in group riding education.
Assessment. All recommended riding practices will go through the scrutiny of our safety officer/ride leader. Practices will be put into effect when we have a consensus regarding techniques.
Common sense. While group riding, it is imperative that you follow the bike in front of you. However, always use common sense and survey your entire surroundings while riding.
This was so difficult for me to write about because it reminds me that riding season always ends! I’ve had people ask about tips to store their bike for the winter so….here are things I do to maintain my bike while I pray for warm weather to return.
Oil Change and Lube: It is a good to change the oil prior to winter storage. I change mine, and then run it for a few minutes to get the new oil coated on the engine there will be differing opinions on running after the oil change; it’s just what I would do). Regardless, change the oil before storing! Also lube moving parts (cables, etc.) with recommended lubricants.
Run Carb(s) out of Gasoline: Purge the carb(s) before storage anytime, and add some gasoline stabilizer to your tank per the service instructions.
Wash Bike Thoroughly: It’s good to give your bike a thorough wash job before storage. Blow dry with a leaf blower (@$40 at your Costco/Home Depot), and then towel off excess water.
Belt Drive: The belt is often ignored until there is a problem (in an Easyrider I read where a guy got over 100,000 miles out of his belt by always cleaning his belt after riding his bike)!!!! Check the belt for signs of wear and damage, and clean the belt with mild soap and water when washing your bike. Towel dry while inspecting.
Chain Drive: Adjust per the specification. If you have a chain drive, lube the chain with chain lube (SAE 90 works), or even a light grease (leave a note to clean excess in spring). Put newspaper or cloth under this area to catch the drips.
Painted Areas and Frame: Apply a coat of wax on the painted areas of a bike to keep condensation from damaging the metal. Note: The frame is often neglected, but it should be waxed prior to winter storage just like other painted parts.
Chrome Parts/Rims: Cleaning the chrome and aluminum parts, then coating them with a good chrome polish will keep these areas relatively clean, and easier for Spring clean up. But, if you are hard pressed to do a thorough job on these and want to keep the tarnish off (especially on the aluminum), a coat of silicone lube will give some protection (to be washed off in the spring). Leather/Vinyl: I recommend a cleaner with no petroleum products added. Apply this to the leather seat, tank (leather) bib, and backrest. Note: Several light coats are much better than a single heavy one. Buff with a soft cloth after the conditioner/cleaner has dried. Clean the vinyl with a vinyl cleaner, and then use a vinyl protector. There are several on the market. Buff with a soft cloth when dry.
Battery: Use a battery conditioner during the winter months. Remove the battery from the motorcycle if possible. Clean the terminals. Check the fluid level (add if necessary). Hint: Use a flashlight to shine through the case to view the level. Attach a Battery Tender to keep the battery in good shape. Place the battery on a wood plank (not concrete!!).
Exhaust Pipes: Little critters and bugs don’t know any better, so stuff a clean rag in the end of your pipe, or cover with a plastic bag (secured with a rubber band). Leave a note to remove the rags in Spring. (Note: A touch of fuel oil or WD-40 on the cloth or shop towel will discourage most critters from making a home in the pipe (with the rag). Be cautious on the amount of fuel oil or oil used. Dampen, not soaked, then stuff in the pipe(s)).
Tire Pressure: Check the tire pressure. Adjust as needed and leave a note to check in spring.
Cover: Cover your motorcycle with a good breathable cover. Or, a soft cotton bed sheet to keep the dust off. This won’t prevent condensation from forming on your ride, but it will keep dust, etc. off your bike. Note: Pets like Cats like to perch on warm places during the cool days (like a soft seat). I put a box over my seat and backrest to restrict this activity.
Clean Helmet Liner: Self explanatory. You may also want to place the helmet in a box to keep critters from nesting inside.
Spring Note/List: Write down all the things you need to do or check in the spring, tape the list to the ignition or handle bars where you will readily see it. With your bike still in hibernation your to-do list and any additions or modifications will complete the winter storage process. As you think about the new riding season, consider what needs to be adjusted, serviced or replaced. If it needs tires, they may be cheaper during the winter. Fluid in the radiator, fork or other systems might be ready to be freshened. You may notice anything from brake pads to shift levers that are due for replacement. Valves are supposed to be adjusted with the engine cold, and it probably won’t be much colder than in February.
Doing the above assures that your bike will be ready in the spring (which can NEVER COME SOON ENOUGH for me).
I've been riding Harley-Davidson motorcycles since I was 19....I'm originally from Jamaica, raised in New York City and now call Anchorage, Alaska home. While I'm a H-D "enthusiast" I am not one of those...um...people who somehow believe that Harley's are the be-all-end-all motorcycle or that I'm a better "American" by buying HD. If you're on two wheels, you're up two cool points in my book!
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I've been riding Harley-Davidson motorcycles since I was 19....I'm originally from Jamaica, raised in New York City and now call Anchorage, Alaska home. While I'm a H-D "enthusiast" I am not one of those...um...people who somehow believe that Harley's are the be-all-end-all motorcycle or that I'm a better "American" by buying HD. If you're on two wheels, you're up two cool points in my book!
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